by coasterer » Sun May 13, 2012 3:31 pm
Copenhagen has a great thing going for it, in regards to its proximity to Norway. In fact, prior to arriving in Denmark, I would often daydream about Copenhagen as the ‘doorway to Scandinavia’, and often envisioned myself embarking on Viking ships out of port, and heading straight North on a polar bear, skinny dipping in fjords and camping in reindeer hide huts under the Northern lights.
While none of this really happens, you can in some ways get really close, and while I have yet to ride a polar bear, I did do a fair amount of traveling with the aim to actualize these Nordic fantasies.
I’m convinced Norway is the perfect country. It’s beautiful, and perfect, and everybody’s happy, and good looking, and employed, and even if they’re not, the government takes extraordinarily good care of them. I would love more than anything to one day get a cabin in the fjords up north, way in the middle of nowhere, and visit occasionally, but really not be obligated to do anything. Of all the places I went, the landscapes here were arguably the most stunning. And of course, the Northern Lights are to die for.
If you’ve always wanted to see the Northern Lights and haven’t yet… I’m not sure this report is for you. I can’t promise I’ll be able to stop talking about how great they are.
I took a February trip up to Tromso for the weekend, a small city waaaay up north, up above the Arctic Circle, mostly situated on an island between the inland fjords and Whale Mountain, which separates Tromso from the Arctic Ocean. The city is stunning and quaint all at the same time, and I just couldn’t get over it. I felt like I was at the end of the world.
I did a lot of wandering. Norway is expeeeennsssive, and even the public transportation was like 6 bucks a pop. There’s a cable car you can take across the bridge and past the Arctic Cathedral, which takes you to one of the mountains for an overview of the city. Tromso is on a small island, about 4 miles long and less than a mile or so wide, with the airport right in the middle, and my hostel way at the south tip, which I would walk the two miles to and from. It was cold, but it wasn’t as cold as you would expect - probably about 20-25 degrees Fahrenheit most of the time.
The Northern Lights were unlike anything I’ve ever seen. It was mind-blowing, and all the pictures in the world can’t prepare you for how surreal and hauntingly beautiful they are. They took a while to warm up, but all of the sudden this ghostly green curtain appears out of no where like lava, and slowly ripples its way from horizon to horizon, rending the sky in two. I met a girl from Berlin in her early 20s, who, like me, had gotten sick of her friends’ hesitancy to go anywhere interesting, and had hopped on a plane by herself to just get well off the beaten path. We ended up at the same place the next afternoon for a snowshoeing trek up a mountain, which was easily one of the most exhausting things I’ve ever done. The snowsuits sure were fun to walk around in though. I felt like an alien.
One of the best things to do when you’re budget traveling is to pretend like you’re staying in really hotels. When you pretend you’re staying there, everyone thinks you’re staying there, and you can spend a large amount of time in the lobby, where it’s warm, and occasionally there’s a fireplace and access to their free wifi. Sometimes you’ll even be able to get a crack at a complimentary fruit basket, or a leftover supply of fancy banquet deserts. But you’re also presented with the opportunity to get in on tourist trips that you otherwise wouldn’t have known about.
Like the roundtrip bus and ferry trip to Skjervoy and back. This I signed up for at the last minute and sat down to the most delightful company of an 80 year old Norwegian woman from Alta, who had made the long trek into the city to visit a dentist. The farther we got out of the city, the more beautiful things got. And I’m pretty sure it’s here where I saw the most beautiful landscape I’ve ever seen. The bus flits around the base of the impossibly steep fjords, which tower over you, and the late afternoon sun is just hovering below the horizon for hours now, sending an ethereal glow of purple and pink off the tops of the crooked mountains, their edges blurred by the snow being blown off into the twilight sky. The fjord inlets you skirt around shimmer silver blue, laden with ice, as the lights of the cabin or two across the water flicker on in the dusk like fireflies. And all this time the old woman next to you is telling you about her granddaughters, and you can’t shake the feeling that she must be a witch, because normal people can’t possibly live in places as beautiful as this.
But unfortunately we didn’t make it all the way to Skjervoy – we were blocked by an avalanche, and I had to catch another bus heading back to the city, as they would have to take an alternate route and I would miss the roundtrip ferry back to Tromso.
But fortunately, this afforded me one of the most incredible opportunities I’ve ever had. The guy at my hostel, who I had spent nearly an hour talking with, had suggested I make my way up to Whale Mountain my last night in town. So at around midnight, not having had the money to pay for the last night before my 6:40 am flight, I got everything on my back and headed out into the cold, catching a local bus to the other side of the airport and across the bridge to the town at the base of the mountain, where I backtracked a ways, and found a secret entrance to a set of cross country ski paths, which were walkable due to the snow being packed down from the skiers. And from about 1 am til 3, I was alone on Whale Mountain, the city far away now, the silence of Whale Mountain almost swallowing me completely, as I made my way blindly on the unmarked paths of packed snow, my way illuminated by the silver of the moon and the haunting green of the Northern Lights. And having finally made my way back to the airport, I snuck in through the parking garage elevators, which I had previously read from a travel blog were left on all night, and caught a quick nap under the florescent lights of the terminal, the Arctic cold of the night howling outside.
Words of advice: get to Norway, and then just head north.
Thanks for reading, I’ll be back soon with pictures of Oslo, Tusenfryd, Bergen, and springtime fjords.
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- Ship off the shore of Tromso, often nicknamed the Paris of the North
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- Inland fjords. Norway does this funky think up north where the land breaks apart and nothing is solid or connected
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- The bridge to the Arctic Cathedral. Which was beautiful
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- A man on a street
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- One of my favorite views, ever. I was in the yard of some sort of factory getting this shot
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- Big scarf and an Arctic bridge
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- Crossing the bridge to get to the cable car
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- Tromso from the top of a fjord
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- Here you get a pretty good sense of the city. You can see the airport on the back half of the city and Whale Mountain behind it. My hostel was way off to the left, at the tip of the island
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- You really have to take advantage of the sunlight when it's February. This was around 2 or 3 in the afternoon I believe
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- Around that mountain on the left was the way our bus went my last night, to get to Skjervoy
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- One last look towards the Arctic Cathedral, you can see the cable car at the top there on the right
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- As the sun sets, the city lights up
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- I couldn't get enough of this view, this time as the sun was setting (which took hours, by the way)
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- And at night, it's just stunning
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- This is Julia, the girl I met from Berlin. Northern Lights buddies. She was more excited than she looks haha
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- This was the best my camera could do. I promise you it's about 100 times as amazing as this
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- Heading out on a little snowshoe adventure.
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- Ope, there I go! I promise, it's way more tiring than you could ever imagine
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- Just some arctic sled dogs I found
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- And I'll end with this one, taken at the start of my midnight walk around the cross country ski paths on Whale Mountain. This might be the most beautiful picture I've ever taken. Thanks for reading guys!
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