by coasterer » Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:47 am
Sorry these things get so long. There's just a lot of good stuff to say
So, Dubai gets a lot of criticism for being things like “not-the-true-Middle-East-at-all-not-even-a-little”, “a-gross-display-of-wealth-that-is-only-superficial”, and a place where “everyone’s-an-immigrant-getting-underpaid-and-they-can’t-wait-to-move-out-anyways”. And it was, it totally was. BUT if you can get behind the gross abuses of wealth and the lack of nationalistic identity in the face of materialistic supremacy, and the lack of attention to any humanitarian concern at allllllll… it’s just a really neat place to be. NOWHERE else in the world grew a city like this, and nowhere are the effects of an exploding, hollow, decayed, superficial capitalistic market more overtly displayed. What it lacks in functionality, it more than makes up for in obscenity of lavishness. And I guess it kind of failed as a project. So it’s interesting, more than anything, so soooo fascinating, and that’s why you should go there.
The buildings are unbelievable. The public transportation hubs look like space stations. The infrastructure completely dwarfs the human scale, rendering things like “walking” obsolete. There weren’t any real people. And to have all this on display as the manifestations of the most disastrous capitalistic investment ever, was just delightful. Dubai is not how cities should be made. Yet to see how far we’ve come, and how far people thought they could take it, was absolutely fascinating.
I got off the bus somewhere in the middle of the city while the sun was setting, with still a few hours left before I was set to meet up with the guy I was couch surfing with, who had spent the week in Doha for business. So, with nothing more than a couple fuzzy google maps I had printed out, I set out in search of some credits on foot, taking my best stab at the location of my whereabouts and just heading in the direction of the Old City.
Now, anyone traveling in Dubai looking to go coaster hunting should never do what I did. Never. This city was not made for walking, nor was it made for roller coasters, nor was it made for poor college students, nor was it made for backpackers, nor was it made to be walked around in at night, nor was it made for clear cut directions and a pristine orientation. It was made for the wealthiest of them all, which didn’t apply in any way to what I was setting out to do. I wandered through sand fields, I cut along back roads, I crossed major highways on foot and walked along shoulders. I hopped over fences, snuck through barbed wire fences, and cut through yards. I asked shop owners and restaurant owners and anyone out walking and I walked for miles and miles. I read and reread inaccurate maps and had to reorient myself way too many times due to inconsistencies. But I managed somehow, which leads me to the incredibly exciting reward of three parks that night.
My first stop was Stargate, a huge, beautiful public park area full of families enjoying the early evening together, with an indoor game center towards the back set in-ground as a bunch of planets. There was a funky coaster bursting out from one of them that looked like it hadn’t run in a while, and with my prospects low, I went inside to find out that, indeed, it hadn’t been running in a while. I did manage to find a torn up picture on the wall of a B&M invert, so.... hopefulthinkingfutureplans??? Actually the place was super sketchy and I got out of there as fast as I could. I had heard from previous reports that the coaster here was on its last legs, and I guess it had finally run its last lap. Of course, all this was in March, so I don’t know what Stargate’s been up to since then.
The next park took an awful long time to hunt down. I found myself in the backyards of the embassy strips, and in a rush to hurry away from the Pakistan place, found myself in a number of back-alley slum-ish backyards, climbing over fences, and sneaking around desert dumpsters and running away from dogs. The only reason I found Al-Nasr Liesureland at all was that I finally spotted the ferris wheel poking out above the houses. It didn’t help that NOBODY had ever heard of this place, and could offer me directions, even within a couple blocks of it. DubaiDave, if I remember his story correctly, had lived here for years before stumbling across the ferris wheel like I did, completely unaware that this place existed. And was it worth it?? OH MY GOODNESS hahahahahaha. When I met up with Dave a couple days later, all I had to say was Al-Nasr Liesureland and we both burst out laughing.
After making my way through the seedy entrance, and around the deserted, dilapidated carnival rides all themed to tropical fruits, there was a small, homemade looking Blizzard coaster in the back corner that looked like the most poorly assembled project of any kind I’ve ever seen, even in the dark! After minutes of scouring the place looking for an operator, I was told I needed to get tickets first. Where were the tickets being sold you might ask? Right behind the giant pineapple. Was there anybody there? Don’t be ridiculous, of course not. It was the same ride op who told me to go buy tickets who ended up coming 10 minutes later to sell me them, and then meandered with me on back to the world’s-worst-looking coaster to give me a couple laps. Now, normally I’d be quite grateful for the extra lap, but when this thing started going around again, my body started reacting very violently, a la werewolf trying to escape its inevitable fate. There is a something very, VERY wrong with the transition out of that first drop, making it the second most painful coaster experience of my life, just behind a ride in the middle of Turkey (see pages 3 and 4).
But wait, there’s more. Running out of Al-Nasr Liesureland as fast as I could, I still had one more park to hit before the night shut down around 10, and wandered the 18+ mile journey over to Wonderland. Now, this park is notorious for not having rides open, as a few of you may know, so I wasn’t really alllllllll that hopeful when I strolled in around 9:40. But, as luck would have it, since it was so late and they were trying to hurry me out, I got a personal escort to the two coasters, a janky old wild mouse, and a roller skater on the other side of the park. The ride op I was with would walk over to the deserted rides that looked like they had been abandoned years ago – seriously, I think we had to walk across grass to get to the wild mouse - and start them up for me. Tired, bruised, and hungry, I retired for the night to a huge Egyptian themed bar thing out in one of the malls for the local couch-surfing meet up, and met my guy, Erik, who I stayed with for a couple of days.
For those of you who don’t know, couch surfing is a great great network where you can offer your couch up to backpackers and backpackers can stay on it for a few nights, to save on costs and to see the city through the eyes of a local. You’re expected to contribute both ways if you can, and it’s really just a great way to meet other adventurous, interesting people, and have some help while you travel. I had a great time with it, and really appreciated everything Erik did for me. He was a great host, and it was so nice to be showed around by someone who knew what they were doing.
The highlight of the next two days was hitting up the fish market the next day to grab some stuff for a barbecue out on the beach with a bunch of friends who came from all over the place. We had people from the Philippines, from Iran, from Lebanon, from Egypt, from everywhere. It was incredible. And we spent the beautiful afternoon out on the beach under the shadow of the burj, on one of the greatest days of the whole trip semester. We went and got dessert later on in a little place right next to that big ol’ hotel, which was unbelievable, got denied from a place because we didn’t have a nice enough car and weren’t nationals, and spent the evening hanging out in the malls under the Burj Khaliffa, watching the fountains and catching the Sega credit. We ate a late dinner at a Karachi place out in the residential area, and turned in after a couple drinks.
The next day, DubaiDave was kind enough to pick me up and show me around the Sharjah parks, the easy highlight of which was the spinning coaster at Space City. That thing was wild. Dave’s car ended up spinning more than I’ve ever seen another coaster spin, and it was just great.
I also want to touch on the Burj, which I feel I’ve sorely underrepresented here. IT. WAS. SO. TALL. I just couldn’t get over it, it was so tall. I mean, we’ve all seen tall buildings before, but THIS!!! It was unbelievable. I mean, I’m studying civil engineering and architecture, this is the stuff that gets me going, and it was just…. It wasn’t real. It was the craziest thing I’ve ever seen. It was that tall.
Overall though, I had such a great time there, with everybody, and couldn’t be more thankful for the hospitality people showed me. The city was unforgettable. Thanks to everyone who made it that way! Enjoy the pictures guys
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- Dubai, a land where buildings are too big for pictures
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- My first stop was Stargate, a very very strange place with a beautiful outdoor public park, and a ride that we're all a little thankful is no longer running
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- Al-Nasr was the weirdest place I have ever been
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- It was also one of the hardest to find.
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- It's hard to tell, but the transition out of the first drop was one of the most painful experiences of my entire life
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- And in yet another wonderful progression of a goose-chase of an evening, we've arrived in Wonderland.
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- I was told it was unheard of that I managed both credits on one trip. I believe it.
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- It's been a long night, but what a great find
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- This is the roller skater credit on the other side of the park
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- Man, the theming on everything is all or nothing out here
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- Next day at the fish market
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- That thing is so freaking tall!!!!
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- this was one of the greatest days of my life. Fish barbecue out on the beach under the burj. Unreal
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- Our beach
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- Too nice for words. A small sandstorm started picking up later in the afternoon, but it was still incredible. That in itself, watching the Burj al Arab slowly disappearing on the horizon, hidden by the sand, was mind-blowing
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- A closer look at the Burj al Arab
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- Ooooohhhh baby, this thing is unbelievable. I think I checked prices online, and they were around 2000 bucks a night.
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- Four of us in front of the burj -
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- Mostly, I just couldn't believe it was a real building
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- These pictures get a little goofy
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- Group jump shot
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- Things that shouldn't exist in the desert
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- This was just a mall. But I don't think I've ever seen anything closer to a sultan overlooking his kingdom
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- The Burj Khallifa at night
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- Real world Eisengard
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- This place was just mind-blowing
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- and a fountain
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- The Sega coaster- I sat across from two kids, the youngest of whom was just SCREEEAMING bloody murder the whole way. Poor guy
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- Late night south-Asian dinner
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- I went back to get a few pictures of this guy in the daylight, and it was just mind-boggling
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- These are the Dubai space stations
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- This was the most excited I've been since ... traveling 149 mph through the desert in Abu Dhabi the other day
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- Just the base alone was impossible big
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- The surrounding neighborhoods, with sky scrapers and half-finished projects
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- Almost the same size
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- Traveling with Dave around Sharjah
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- A couple powered coasters - one of them wasn't up and running, buuuuut, the goooood news, was...
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- I got a free Adventureland hat out of it!
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- The ride op picked up the hat left in one of the back seats on the ride, and asked if it was ours. We said a hurried "nooo..." but then he asked again, and after a quick look at each other, we shrugged and said "oh yeah, yeah, that's ours that's right!" And there we go. Been wearing it all the time ever since.
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- This was space city, at the top of the second mall we went into. THIS ride, was unlike anything I've ever been on.
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- I'm not sure exactly what it was or what it did, but it did THIS to Dave
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- Our last park - unfortunately we couldn't get them to open the coaster for us, but it was still a great time.
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- Last picture before I caught a flight out of there to start heading back to Copenhagen, via a strategically scheduled double layover in Bahrain and London ....during the protests. Stay tuned guys, thanks for reading!!
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Hey guys, I'm transitioning out of college into full time Christian international missions work, and am currently raising support before leaving this September. I've got a blog about it
here. Anyway you could help out, whether it's just to check out what I'll be up to, helping support me financially, or passing this on to someone else who might be interested or able to help me out, would mean the world to me.